1:6 Series 1

cooper

Well-known member
There are many years of evolution between the 2 models .. About the model, keep tuned. If I share, I'll post here. I'll keep watch for abusers...
 

cooper

Well-known member
One thing I've wanted to do on this build is scratchbuilding with styrene.. I've only done it with PVC sheet...Styrene is way better. Easy to cut and less messy overall . 3D printing is great but I hate the long printing times and sanding afterwards( and I'm ignoring redoing parts...)




This is the rear section, in 2mm sheet, bonded with Tamiya cement

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ax30FfHh.jpg
 

Paulnb57

Supporting Member
The joy of the Series 1 main body is the flat panels, like the Willys is was originally based on they both have a charm of their own, the centre steer prototype Series1 would make an interesting build…interestingly the Series 1, was just a Land Rover until the Series 2 was introduced

The centre steer

 

cooper

Well-known member
Must have been satisfying to build such a square shape!

I spent extra time lining everything to use minimal glue. I'm happy for not needing putty to fix holes



The joy of the Series 1 main body is the flat panels, like the Willys is was originally based on they both have a charm of their own, the centre steer prototype Series1 would make an interesting build…interestingly the Series 1, was just a Land Rover until the Series 2 was introduced

The centre steer



I knew that this one was lost to time but didn't knew there was a replica made. Looks fascinating and would be cool to make a tiny one..just for the uniqueness
 

cooper

Well-known member
I've hit a wall. Printed a windshield but it doesn't look right. Seems short and it all that width, looks squashed. I've double checked and triple checked my reference photos and don't see where I'm wrong. Anyone knows somebody with a S1 to measure that?
 

LandyMan

Member
They are pretty squashed looking tbh. The windscreen also has two horizontal lower bars for a vent which may be confusing. Anyways:
- 1500 wide (outside)
- 585 high (out side)
- 1" tubes
- 120 for centre to centre for the second bar at the bottom.
- Turn indicator flappers mount 110-120 from the top of the frame.
- Mirror bracket is 250 ish from bottom of the frame
- Frame for the glass overlaps glass by 20mm
- Windscreen wipers mount 490 from each side
- mounting tabs/windscreen hinge to firewall has 95mm of weld and bolt hole is 55 forward and 55 down
- inside latches are 170 centre to outside of frame
-hood hooks are 180 centres and there are 9
-3 rivets verticals and 8 horizontal holding in the windscreen :D

That's for a 1953 (last year if head lights not behind grill) should mostly all be the same. The windscreen on mine felt way too tall when I made it 1:4 scale? Hope this helps
 

cooper

Well-known member
They are pretty squashed looking tbh. The windscreen also has two horizontal lower bars for a vent which may be confusing. Anyways:
- 1500 wide (outside)
- 585 high (out side)
- 1" tubes
- 120 for centre to centre for the second bar at the bottom.
- Turn indicator flappers mount 110-120 from the top of the frame.
- Mirror bracket is 250 ish from bottom of the frame
- Frame for the glass overlaps glass by 20mm
- Windscreen wipers mount 490 from each side
- mounting tabs/windscreen hinge to firewall has 95mm of weld and bolt hole is 55 forward and 55 down
- inside latches are 170 centre to outside of frame
-hood hooks are 180 centres and there are 9
-3 rivets verticals and 8 horizontal holding in the windscreen :D

That's for a 1953 (last year if head lights not behind grill) should mostly all be the same. The windscreen on mine felt way too tall when I made it 1:4 scale? Hope this helps


Of course it helps!! I was waiting for someone to reply. You did and I don't got the email notification .Thanks for the trouble of taking those dimensions. will come in handy.


I was looking for these kinds of windshields(windscreens?), with a stamped panel under the glass
https://cars.bonhams.com/auction/29...y-chassis-no-r866615-engine-no-866714/#photos

Correct if I'm wrong but If you have the bonnet for the spare tire, it is a different windshield where just the upper part will go down?
 

Paulnb57

Supporting Member
As far as I know the windscreen on the S1 was the same for spare on the bonnet (hood) or spare in the tub, I guess if the spare was on the bonnet then dropping the screen was not possible
 

LandyMan

Member
Glad I could be of assistance! I am happy to provide pics of any parts you need.
Correct if I'm wrong but If you have the bonnet for the spare tire, it is a different windshield where just the upper part will go down?
In relation to this, there was only 1 option available like Paul said, however the actual hinge pivot being 50mm forward of the base of the frame turns into 50mm more in height when the windshield folds forward 90 degrees. The tyres were also super skinny also. My SCX-6 cannot fold down with the spare because, scaled up, its like a 12.5x32" tyre vs a 7.50x29". Loving the build so far!
 

cooper

Well-known member
Glad I could be of assistance! I am happy to provide pics of any parts you need.

In relation to this, there was only 1 option available like Paul said, however the actual hinge pivot being 50mm forward of the base of the frame turns into 50mm more in height when the windshield folds forward 90 degrees. The tyres were also super skinny also. My SCX-6 cannot fold down with the spare because, scaled up, its like a 12.5x32" tyre vs a 7.50x29". Loving the build so far!


I don't want to abuse the help but I just need 2 more dimensions if you don't mind. If you don't, height and length of the raised section under the seats. I know that the width is door to door
 

LandyMan

Member
No problem at all, this is what forums are all about!
You are correct, the width of the "seat box" is 1450mm with the thickness of the doors being roughly 50mm and the firewall 1500-something. Height is 210mm and it extends 480mm at the top and 450 at the bottom due to the back of the doors being on that angle (pretty sure you are making an 80" not 86"). Front of the box is vertical ofc leaving 350mm between it and the firewall where the doors attach. The covers that hide the stowage compartment under the passenger and the fuel tank are 400mm wide. I have all this written down on paper already but double checked!
 

cooper

Well-known member
I'm a bit disappointed.. My plan of putting this body on the Willys chassis went down the drain. They are not compatible without mods and I don't want to modify the chassis.



Anyway, the parts are like this while I'm making the windscreen
g6q0xdih.jpeg
 

cooper

Well-known member
Wow! That is soft!

I believed there's softer TPU but that's what I have right now - amazon basics. Prints great



Nice to see some progress

Thanks! there's being a bit slow but it is getting there .

Another small thing:


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On the 1:1, this half of the hinge is welded to the bulkhead so I've made them thicker with a shape that matches a cut in the bulkhead and assembled with glue + screw that will be covered . That solves the problems of parts' position and alignment. The pin on the hinges is a 1mm steel nail
 

cooper

Well-known member
What I'm doing wrong?

I've already cheat a bit, adding about 10mm to the windshield height but printed this one and the top of the driver's head is still 10mm above the top of the windshield.

My figure is 1:6, with 30cm

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Kear

Bleb
Did you remember to account for the fact both the driver and the seat lack any kind of squish? A hard seat made to the thickness of a squishy one will usually mess up the driving position
 

Paulnb57

Supporting Member
Your seat isnt helping, on the full size the seat base is a piece of plywood, with a piece of foam on top covered in vinyl fabric, very basic and very squishy….
Also folk were generally shorter in height

As a 6 footer I was just able to see through the screen

Maybe look for a driver figure a little less tall and reprint the base compressed?

Back in the day there wasnt much room
IMG_8263.jpeg
 
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