Bogger Blazer aka. more Ghetto - less Vanquish

JMo

V.I.P. Member
This is a project that I've had on the back burner for a while now, and while I usually like to have at least a roller assembled before I start a build thread, I thought this time I'd mix things up a bit and introduce it to you early, so you can follow my train of thought, and laugh (I mean learn of course) from any mistakes as I go along...

It is essentially an amalgam of a few ideas I've incorporated (or at least experimented with) in some of my previous builds over the years, although fundamentally it's the first time I've used an actual Axial SCX10 II chassis (albeit the C-rails themselves are aftermarket pattern parts from eBay), rather than my usual eBay special Trailfinder/Gelende style solid rail chassis kits which I'm very happy utilising for all manner of custom projects which feature different wheelbases and suspension layouts. Indeed, looking at my current crawler collection, only the Ghetto Vanquish (which is on a pukka VS410 chassis kit) is the odd-one out, together with my Axial Capra based buggy build of course - all the others are build around that universal Injora chassis.

As such, this particular build is very much intended to be a passport to Axialfest in California this year (fingers crossed it does go ahead as planned), since most of my vehicles are technically not eligible [note to anyone who's attended in the past, can you tell me how stringent they are regarding the specification rules?]...

Of course I appreciate Axialfest is foremost a celebration hosted by the manufacturer for customers of their products (or at least closely based on their product design elements), and as I understand it, technically the Ghetto Vanquish ought to meet the scrutineers requirements since it has SCX10 pattern chassis, axles and central 3-gear transmission - albeit all aftermarket/upgrade parts, rather than Axial branded originals... Ironically my Capra, which is visually closest to a stock Axial vehicle, may not be eligible after all since it uses [more narrow] RC4WD Yota II axles rather than SCX10 width/style, although at least it has an Axial [style] 3-gear transmission hidden in it's belly.


So anyway, back to the build itself... Having become rather obsessed with Jeeps recently, and generally building traditional truck-cab pick-up style vehicles, I was aware my 'garage' was in danger of starting to look rather samey (at least to anyone who might not fully appreciate all the different detail elements I've incorporated into each individual build... coupled with my penchant for painting them all in shades of either green or blue) - so I thought I'd have a have a go at something a bit different this time and build more of a truggy or at least 'cage-back' style truck, using a mix of off-the-shelf parts coupled with some custom bodywork.

If you've followed some of my other build threads in the past, you might be aware that Retro Desmond (now very much a traditional style open-top FJ40 Land Cruiser), actually started out as a 4WS HiLux Truggy using a narrowed Trailfinder cab, and Vaterra Ascender cage back. It was cheap and cheerful, and not especially scale looking - other than it proved to be a good platform to experiment with some scale detailing which I ultimately went on to incorporate into future builds...

So the 'Bogger' as I've affectionately come to call this project is essentially a homage to that original concept, while trying to incorporate more of an air of scale realism about it:


photo. very rough, and roughly mocked up... this is why I robbed these wheels from my JK Jeep - they're going to be perfect!

The inspiration behind this build is one of those mud-runner style naily full-size pick-ups you might see churning up the swamps in the southern states... In that regard I've chosen to use an RC4WD Chevy Blazer body, cut down to just a cab, together with the moulded rear panel from a Trailfinder/Mojave body, which actually fits reasonably well with just a bit of trimming, and what will ultimately be some epoxy to fill in the remaining gaps and provide a solid join.




Since I have neither the facilities nor the experience/talent to braze and weld metal rod/tubing myself, the rear cage is actually an off-the-shelf item from RC4WD too - specifically designed to mate with a HiLux/Mojave 2-door cab on an SCX10 II chassis - and as you can see from the photos, all I've had to do is extend the rear chassis rails by approximately 20mm (using a kit from SSD as I recall) so that the cage is in the correct location for the slightly longer Blazer cab, which is mounted using the same brackets you'd use to mount a Trailfinder cab so that the front axle on the SCX10 II chassis is central in the wheel-arch - result!


photo. turns out the cage mates perfectly with the back of the narrowed Blazer/Trailfinder hybrid cabin - as if it were made for it!

Of course those of you familiar with these respective RC4WD bodies will know there is a huge disparity in width between a HiLux body and the full-size Blazer shell... the answer was to narrow the Blazer cab in a similar way to that which I'd incorporated in my Baja Blazer build, by slicing a 30mm chunk out of middle and rejoining the two halves - and then fabricating my own narrow hood out of styrene:





In this instance I made sure the overall width of the body remained wide enough so that I could use a Vanquish VS410 'Scout' grille panel, again, something I'd already messed around with previously during the Baja Blazer build, and felt the round headlight look particularly suits this 'retro' body after all?


photo. as the thread title suggests, this is going to be a lot more Ghetto, and a lot less Vanquish - currently only the grille is being utilised!

cont.
 
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JMo

V.I.P. Member
cont.

So with the basic proportions sorted, I then mixed and matched a few chassis components - some of which I've subsequently robbed for other projects, since as I mentioned above, this really has been a back-burner project for quite a while now while other builds have taken priority...


photo. my original chassis mock-up sometime in the middle of last year (2020) as I recall...

The basic chassis layout has not changed since the above photo - I've used traditional C-channel rails, and a steering servo relocation cross-member at the front, as the servo will tuck in nicely behind the Blazer bonnet/Scout grille in this location.

The centre transmission mount is an aluminium SCX10 II style skid-plate, together with an eBay aluminium 3-gear transmission - they work well enough and are very affordable compared to either a genuine [plastic case] Axial transmission, or indeed a pukka Vanquish all-metal version.

In the photo above I utilised a pair of eBay portal axles (similar to those I'd originally fitted to the Defender 90), and which I've now transplanted under the Ghetto Vanquish, while in turn it’s original straight axles now reside under the JK Jeep (are you keeping up at the back?!)

Anyway, the upshot of all this chopping and changing means this project is currently without any axles - and I'm debating which avenue to take now... One thing I quite fancy experimenting with is something I think Josh (Harley Designs) did a while ago, and use a portal axle on the rear, combined with a straight axle up front - not least as I don't want the front of this vehicle to be too high (despite intending to fit these huge oversize tyres) - and this ought to be entirely feasible as rather oddly when I first got my original portal axles, one of them came with a reverse cut crown and pinion gear (which I replaced with a regular version, so that both axles ran in the same direction), which means I now have the option of running a portal in the same direction as a straight axle while both differential housings remain in the same orientation. We'll see!

The other thing I particularly want to incorporate into this build is a quick/easy battery change - and since I'm using a traditional Axial style centre transmission and a servo mount bumper bracket, the lift-up hood of the Blazer body would offer easy access to a forward-mounted battery tray:



Due to packaging constraints, plus the fact that all my LiPos are 2S shorty packs anyway, I've made my own tray panel from 2mm styrene, together with a couple of end brackets from an off-the-shelf battery holder... and this ought to prove super-easy (barely an inconvenience) to change batteries while running for an extended period - again, very much a priority for this build as primarily a simple and robust trail-runner.

Other bodywork mods so far include a simple flat hood (which as with Hopper's HiLux will be completely removable) made from 1.5mm styrene - for easy access to the battery compartment and other electronics, and held in place using magnets... and I've also made a start on modifying the front wheel arches, although now I've decided on these Big Fat Goodrich tyres, they are certainly going to require further surgery:



You might also have noticed in the photo above that I appear to have found the perfect front bumper for this build - and it seems I have!

Again, much as with taking a punt on that RC4WD rear cage and hoping it would line up with the Blazer cab I'd created (indeed I can't believe how perfectly it did - the Blazer cab being approximately 10mm higher than the HiLux, means the roll-hoop follows the roof line perfectly, rather than protruding above it as it does with the HiLux!), the bumper is actually the metal version of the Marlin Crawler bumper (again from RC4WD - just to really insult everyone at Axialfest ;o) and it lines up perfectly with the trimmed arches and wraps around the new narrower width of the Blazer cab... Even after trimming the front chassis cross-member/bumper mount back 5mm in an effort to minimise the overhang, this still allows enough room in front of the grille for a full size Warm 9.5CTi winch to be installed - again, another result!


photo. ok, so in keeping with the 'ghetto' theme, this is not a genuine RC4WD version, rather an eBay special (the same I've fitted to the TJ Hooker recently), which I have to say I'm very impressed with for the price - particularly as this [US] seller also includes a wireless winch controller all for less than $30!

So that is pretty much where I'm up to right now... as I say, the overall concept is decided, as are much of the underpinnings and body styling - it's worth noting that the RC4WD cage back I bought includes brackets for the genuine Axial LED light bar set (plastic, using traditional LEDs) - a set of which I'd bought on a folly years ago and had kicking around in a box - and I've currently fitted both the roof bar and rear floodlight, although am not sure these will remain as part of the final spec.


photo. Light bars are cool... aren't they?

More soon! - once I've decided on which axles to buy!

Jenny
 
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Kear

New member
The use of a scout grill on a blazer is sacrilege and I am 100% for it. But I swear every 2nd old beat up squarebody I see where I live is on that exact wheel/tire combo, although those seem to have tread instead of markered on outlines of tread.

(Edit) : Could you measure the width of the winch above the spool? I'm curious if I could wedge that winch into the CCHand bumper on my hilux instead of the 9.5 mini. The bumper has a rather small opening above where the winch goes that the mini barely peeks out of and I'm curious if the casing on the bigger one would still peek out of that opening correctly without just, wildly cutting the bumper open.
 
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dagabba

Supporting Member
Very interesting stuff, love the way all the different truck elements are combined, will be interesting to see what the final look is.
 

imthatguy

Putting it in "H"
You had me at narrowed Blazer cab with Scout grille.

EDIT: Meant to mention that having worked for Axial during Axialfest, getting your tech pass is very much a serious thing. They put on this event to be Axial-Only, so they're looking over each truck quite carefully. They stop short of denying a pass if you're running different axle housings, but the internals must be Axial spec, and you have to run an Axial chassis, transmission, etc. I've seen people turned away, and asked to leave the trails, so I'd definitely play by the rules.
 
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JMo

V.I.P. Member
The use of a scout grill on a blazer is sacrilege and I am 100% for it. But I swear every 2nd old beat up squarebody I see where I live is on that exact wheel/tire combo, although those seem to have tread instead of markered on outlines of tread.

(Edit) : Could you measure the width of the winch above the spool? I'm curious if I could wedge that winch into the CCHand bumper on my hilux instead of the 9.5 mini. The bumper has a rather small opening above where the winch goes that the mini barely peeks out of and I'm curious if the casing on the bigger one would still peek out of that opening correctly without just, wildly cutting the bumper open.

Hi Kear - yes, I did think the face transplant was both insulting and inspired at the same time! And I know what you mean about the tyres - they really ought to be huge paddles for it to be a true bogger of course!

Regarding the size of the winch, the drum width is 25mm, the base of the brace above the drum (parallel to the top of the motor) is 39mm, tapering to approx. 32mm, although the top is curved of course. for info. I measured the overall width of the winch at a sniff under 75mm - so essentially the same size as the genuine RC4WD version. Hope that helps!

Very interesting stuff, love the way all the different truck elements are combined, will be interesting to see what the final look is.

Hee hee - yes, it is a bit of a mash up, but at the same time I hope it will be a legitimate alternative to all the HiLux cabbed cage backs you see out there? I've always had a love-hate relationship to the RC4WD era Chevy Blazer body - particularly the full width version - it's just so ungainly I find - top heavy and tiny wheels... I'm hoping these mods will go some way to redress that balance.

You had me at narrowed Blazer cab with Scout grille.

EDIT: Meant to mention that having worked for Axial during Axialfest, getting your tech pass is very much a serious thing. They put on this event to be Axial-Only, so they're looking over each truck quite carefully. They stop short of denying a pass if you're running different axle housings, but the internals must be Axial spec, and you have to run an Axial chassis, transmission, etc. I've seen people turned away, and asked to leave the trails, so I'd definitely play by the rules.

Ha - I thought I might - a marriage made in hell!

Thank you for the clarification regarding Axialfest - and as I mentioned in my intro, I totally respect the ethos of the whole event of course... So to clarify, as I suspected my Capra-cornholio would not be eligible since it uses Yota II axles rather than a casing using Axial size ring/pinion and shafts?

Conversely though, since the Ghetto Vanquish has a VS410 chassis, traditional 3-gear transmission and portal axles which use Axial size internals (I can confirm the ring and pinion are the same as I bought SCX10 replacement parts so swap that odd reverse cut version I got in one axle) ought to be eligible, even though it has a modified RC4WD 4Runner body on it?

Finally, as long as I choose SCX10 pattern axles for this build, the fact this has SCX10 pattern C-channel chassis rails and a centrally mounted SCX10 pattern 3-gear transmission, it would also pass scrutineering?

Ultimately I trust that Axial do encourage custom builds and alternative body styles at an event of this size (I'm sure it would be rather dull if everyone was driving an RTR Jeep Gladiator) - just as long as what's underneath follows their original design parameters... but presumably they don't consider it in the spirit of the event if you simply turned up with a fully-built Vanquish VS410 Pro... even if it does technically still meet their scrutineering requirements?

Your insight is invaluable of course!

Jenny
 

Kear

New member
Hi Kear - yes, I did think the face transplant was both insulting and inspired at the same time! And I know what you mean about the tyres - they really ought to be huge paddles for it to be a true bogger of course!

Regarding the size of the winch, the drum width is 25mm, the base of the brace above the drum (parallel to the top of the motor) is 39mm, tapering to approx. 32mm, although the top is curved of course. for info. I measured the overall width of the winch at a sniff under 75mm - so essentially the same size as the genuine RC4WD version. Hope that helps!
Ah thank you so much! It seems that with a very small amount of modification that winch will fit.

But I look forward to seein' this one come together, it's definitely a change up from the usual Toyota Truggies floatin' around.
 
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JMo

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Apologies for the slightly longer delay in progressing this one (I told you it was a bit of a back burner project!), but I've finally made a decision regarding the axles, and they just arrived in the post this morning - so stand by for a more detailed update once I've got them mounted...


photo. uh oh, they've sent you two front ones... by mistake?

Yes, after much deliberation I've decided to go full 'beast mode' on this build after all!

As I mentioned in my intro, I'd been toying with the idea of a having just a rear portal axle combined with a conventional front - either by purchasing a pair of straight SCX10 style axles and adding portal lock-out hubs to the rear (together with a reverse pitch crown and pinion I already have), or else buying individual front and rear axles from ZYX for example (who make both versions with these F9 style pumpkins), although that would require an extended wait with shipping from China...

However, looking again at the front end of this truck, I'm clearly going to need a lot of [fender] clearance if I'm going to run these Big Fat Goodrich tyres - so factored having a portal at the front [as well] would probably make more sense anyway, and since a US eBay seller was presumably overstocked with these front axles, had a moment of clarity when I realised the cage-back on this build would offer plenty of room for rear-wheel-steering too - hence the pair of front axles!

These particular axles are not only very nicely finished (the same as those I bought originally for the Defender 90), but their 9mm wide hexes means I also have the option of mounting the deep-dish RC4WD wheels the other way round (and reverting to conventional hex hubs rather then the thin pin hubs currently fitted), which will reduce the track width by 10mm (to 200mm), while still allowing the wheels themselves to clear the portal cases - result!

These axles also come with an optional on-axle servo mounting plate, so while the front end will use a chassis mounted servo, 3-link and panhard rod as per the conventional SCX10 II chassis set-up, at the rear I can mount the corresponding steering servo directly on top of the pumpkin, which in turn should also tuck up nicely between the open rear chassis rails at full compression...

I'm also planning on putting together a ghetto [3rd channel activated] remote switch for the steering rear axle, so it can run in regular front steer only mode as desired - although if that doesn't work out wiring wise, I can always spring for a dedicated Transmitter with built-in 4WS option (Redcat for example appear to make a very affordable option) which would also give me the option of having selectable: front, 4WS, crab-steer and rear only if desired - although other than for the novelty factor (and perhaps extreme competition use?) I can't see me ever wanting anything other than regular front steering or 4-wheel counter steering - hence my idea of a simple [electronic] lock-out for the rear servo.

More soon!

Jenny
 

Badcrumble

Supporting Member
Love it. And yet again you blaze trail for me to follow - my scratch build Latil tractor is 4WS and portalised and I have SCX10ii axles with two sets of Xtra Speed portal hubs ready to go. I'll be paying even closer attention than usual to your progress!

As for a relatively cheap tx, Hobbyking have the Turnigy GT5, itself a clone of Flysky. There are also DumboRC sets around now that even undercut those! Don't know how they stack up against the Redcat offerings (not that common over here).
 
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JMo

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Love it. And yet again you blaze trail for me to follow - my scratch build Latil tractor is 4WS and portalised and I have SCX10ii axles with two sets of Xtra Speed portal hubs ready to go. I'll be paying even closer attention than usual to your progress!

As for a relatively cheap tx, Hobbyking have the Turnigy GT5, itself a clone of Flysky. There are also DumboRC sets around now that even undercut those! Don't know how they stack up against the Redcat offerings (not that common over here).

Ah, thanks for the suggestions 'Crumble - so that GT5 has a menu to set it up for 4WS does it? - that would be good as I have a handful of Flysky 3/4ch receivers already which I trust would readily bind to it.

I know it's probably easiest to get a dedicated remote and just plug the rear-steer servo into Ch3 and set it up via the menu (not least as it would allow me to trim the rear steering independently of the front of course), it's just you may recall from my original Desmond cage-back crawler thread on TC that I was able to incorporate a simple 4WS system since that donor vehicle already came with the same axles front and rear (just with the rear C hubs locked out) - so all I needed was the steering links, a Servo and reversing Y-cable - ie. basically the same set-up I thought I might utilise here too... although in this instance I'm going to experiment with a 3rd channel [lighting] power switch to feed the power on/off to the rear servo, while the signal is driven by the white wire on the Y-cable which mirrors the front servo - not sure if that is going to work or not though?!

Stay tuned!
 

Badcrumble

Supporting Member
The Flysky GT5 has four switchable steering modes and a six channel rx for lots of nice truck tricks! It even has a gyro?!
According to the manual the tx will work with iA10B, iA6B, iA4B, iA10, iA6, iA4C, A6, A3, X6B, BS6 and BS4 rx.
Hope that helps!
 
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JMo

V.I.P. Member
Ok then - I was able to make some progress yesterday, and it's staring to look like a proper truck now...

Fortunately I have a bunch of spare parts left over from more recent builds, not least a selection of stainless-steel 'Husky' links for the SCX10 II chassis which I used on my VS4-10 4Runner build, which ultimately ended up being a combination of 2 different wheelbase sets at the rear.

This meant I was able to mount the front axle easily enough with the correct length 3 links, in combination with my own custom panhard rod since the portal pumpkin means there is limited clearance at full compression.


photo. on 90mm shocks - too high.

I initially mocked the front end up on 90mm Gmade shocks (which admittedly are also a little stiffly spring too) and while everything seemed to clear pretty well, clearly it was too high to be 'scale', or even to perform particularly well I imagine...

Swapping the shocks to 80mm (with much softer blue springs) immediately improved the stance, but then highlighted the limited clearance between pumpkin and panhard rod - the solution was to bend my own custom link to clear the pumpkin and use an offset rod-end at the chassis mount to further improve clearance, and also remove the original 4-link bracing bracket and mount the third link directly to the top of the pumpkin - fortunately there is already an M3 hole there having removed the original bracket!


photo. note: you can see how the reversed deep-dish wheels clear the portal hubs, allowing the track width to be reduced 10mm, and reducing the steering arc of these huge tyres.

I also elected to mount the steering drag link on top of the servo horn in an effort to run it as close to parallel with the panhard rod [to help avoid bump-steer], and may further experiment by mounting the servo on the top of the chassis bracket - although everything seems to work well enough already, and is very compact and well protected under there.


photo. plenty of room under the removable hood for the shorty 2S battery and associated electronics - the idea being this remains a quick-change/easy service runner, rather than a fully detailed 'scale' build with any resultant access limitations.

Fortunately with the 80mm shocks essentially 'limiting' travel, coupled with tucking the wheels inboard as far as I can with this portal hubs, it means only some minor revisions will be required to the front arches for the tyres to clear on full lock and compression.


photo. RC4WD deep-dish wheels flipped inside out to narrow track width - front of the arches already extended forward, and similarly I'll need to trim approx 10mm from the rear of each wing so the 120mm diameter tyres clear at full compression and steering lock.


Rear-steer...

With the front end dialled in sufficiently to finalise the wheelbase, I mocked-up the rear axle location using the remaining links - using the longer set I had (117mm) as upper links to work out which length I'd need to buy to complete the installation. Since there will be no rear bodywork to speak of, and the sides of the cage-back taper towards the cab, there is plenty of room for the rear tyres to steer as desired without stretching the wheelbase out much more than the usual 313mm or thereabouts - and factoring there is an 8mm difference between the upper and lower link lengths at the front, I reckon a pair of 125mm long lower links at the rear will see this truck finally standing on all four wheels at last.


photo. these front axles come with an optional servo mount which screws to the top of the 4-link bracket.

Fortunately there is plenty of room between the SCX10 II chassis rails for the rear-steer servo to sit essentially out of sight (particularly once the spare tyre is refitted above), and on this kind of 'extreme' trail truck, it's probably not unreasonable to think that some kind of hydraulic rear steer might be employed on a 1:1 build, with the associated actuator mounted on the axle in a similar fashion?


photo. rear axle utilises the original 4-link bracket and servo mount for rear-steer.

Currently I've fitted another random spare - a short throw (15mm long) servo horn - since I factored the rear axle may not need as much steering angle as the front (and depending on the final TX/RX set-up, I may end up dialling in the respective front and rear proportions independently anyway) - although this axle kit also comes with a longer 20/23mm aluminium horn should that prove necessary after all...

So overall, it's starting to look a lot closer to how I envisioned, and once the inside (now outside) of the wheels have been rusted, and the longer lower links for the rear arrive, I ought to be very close to having a runner!


photo. modified RC4WD Blazer cab and cage-bed for a Trailfinder 2 cab on an SCX10 II chassis - the two halves ended up mating together surprisingly well I thought?

More soon!

Jenny
 
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dagabba

Supporting Member
Looking good! I bet it will be hugely capable with rear steer. The advantage of using an extra programmable channel is that you can swap between front steer/crab steer/4ws with a switch or button- can be handy. I've only used it in a monster truck though and removed it because I thought it wasn't needed for faster speeds.
 
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JMo

V.I.P. Member
Looking good! I bet it will be hugely capable with rear steer. The advantage of using an extra programmable channel is that you can swap between front steer/crab steer/4ws with a switch or button- can be handy. I've only used it in a monster truck though and removed it because I thought it wasn't needed for faster speeds.
Yes, I have to say I'm leaning that way too now - having it selectable from the remote makes a lot of sense, even if I'll usually just swap between front steer and opposite 4WS as required... what I'd probably appreciate though is the ability to trim the front and rear servos independently, and perhaps have a series of settings depending on circumstances?

However, I still plan to experiment with the wiring I've got, and see if I can't hook up a ghetto on/off [power] for the rear steer servo, and use a reversing Y lead from Ch1 to control both when the rear servo is live - has anyone does this and confirm whether it works or not?
 

JMo

V.I.P. Member
A few more photos from this morning, once the wheel rust had grown overnight:


photo. better living through chemistry!


photo. I also repainted the white lettering on the tyres after it had started to wear off while they were fitted to the
JK Jeep.


photo. I clocked the hubs (one notch) on the front and rear axles to better set the camber compared the proposed diff angles - wheelbase is now a sniff under 313mm as far as I can tell.


photo. RC4WD metal winch bumper (for a Marlin Crawler), with Hawse fairlead and 'pattern' 9000CTi winch.


photo. I'm liking this stance - it's tall, but hopefully the weight is all pretty low. note. the beer-keg/oil drum which will be used as a fuel-tank detail.


More soon!

Jenny
 

JMo

V.I.P. Member
Good call on lowering the ride height, looks good! Rear-steer will be quite fun too

Yes, I think part of the problem is these Gmade shocks are a bit stiff (and there is not a lot of body weight to this particular build) - they work well with those blue springs on my TJ Hooker, but I've ended up using much softer-sprung 90mm eBay shocks on a couple of other builds, which results in almost full droop for a lower ride-height, but at the same time the extra stroke gives plenty of down-travel for articulation... I'll probably end up using those on this build too.
 

SeanOB

Member
Yes, I think part of the problem is these Gmade shocks are a bit stiff (and there is not a lot of body weight to this particular build) - they work well with those blue springs on my TJ Hooker, but I've ended up using much softer-sprung 90mm eBay shocks on a couple of other builds, which results in almost full droop for a lower ride-height, but at the same time the extra stroke gives plenty of down-travel for articulation... I'll probably end up using those on this build too.
yeh I liked the look of those GMade shocks on there too. They look more like miniature struts than most RC coilovers. But, maybe that shorter spring is liable to being too stiff. Praise the eBay Gods for such alternatives ::D:
 

JMo

V.I.P. Member
yeh I liked the look of those GMade shocks on there too. They look more like miniature struts than most RC coilovers. But, maybe that shorter spring is liable to being too stiff. Praise the eBay Gods for such alternatives ::D:

Hi Sean' - yes, I like the scale 'strut' appearance too, plus the narrow body at the top gives plenty of clearance against any shock towers which is a bonus!

With regard to the spring [length] it's not so much the shorter spring - as they are still longer than the overall stroke of the damper of course, rather it's the gauge of the wire (and general material they are made from) which means the original supplied springs are so stiff...

Gmade do offer alternative springs rates (I think the shocks come with 'medium' as standard and you can get 'soft' or 'hard' alternative sets, although goodness knows why anyone would want them stiffer, even on an 8+lb rig!) - but what ended up doing with my TJ Jeep was using some much softer [thinner gauge wire] albeit similar overall length springs from some alternative shocks instead - and these softened them up perfectly for the size and weight of that build...


photo. the blue springs on these 80mm shock bodies are a single spring from a longer 100mm dual-spring shock, which have a similar overall length.

Ideally though I'd ultimately like to run 90mm shock bodies on the front of the Bogger too to give more droop travel, so I may well end up using a set of more conventional coil-over shock (with dual springs) instead - the same as I have already on the 4Runner and JK Jeep - which have much softer springs to begin with together with adjustable preload rings (to help set the ride height) - and that way I can potentially drop the static ride height even further - ie. almost full droop on the bump-stops for maximum stability, while the portals will still offer plenty of ground clearance.

Jenny
 
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