Comanche hauler

Itruckhard

Active member
https://flic.kr/p/2ovdhZd
I'm looking to build this one with leaf rear. A 3S pack behind the cab to hopefully help it pull harder in a tug of war or towing scenario. With one lf those tandem axle trailers.

I haven't decided if I'm going to use a frame or aluminum stock. Have a front motor mount with divorced case coming.
Haven't settled on 1.55" or 1.9" either.
Got a prepainted one to see if it's any good. It's fine. Shines well. No portals this time. Looking for something still. Have to stare it for awhile and see what's next.

Just a standard gray Injora comanche body.
 

Thorsteenster

Supporting Member
Just a thought, but flipping it right side up may make it easier to see what's next...
:sneaky:
Looking forward to it's direction!
what motor is that? It looks either small in diameter and/or long in length
 

Itruckhard

Active member
Thanks. The motor is a 3674 1900 KV. The 5 mm pinion makes it look weird. I like them because they don't get hot. Have gobs or torque. Whenever they're on sale I buy a couple. But I do change my mind a lot during builds. If I get a Max5 esc on sale I can shuffle around the electronics on my trucks. Maybe put a Mamba Monster 6S esc in Comanche. And that way the stock XRT traxxas ESC can do light duty in my bronco TRX4 and hopefully never let the smoke out. Which would be ideal. But of course when i went to click buy the price was up over 100 bucks. Have to wait.

I ordered a frame just to see if thats the way I'm going to go. And I'm hoping the weather finally breaks and I can run these trucks and try out my gimble. For now. Intense staring. And waiting for parts.
 

Itruckhard

Active member
https://flic.kr/p/2ovp4Qf https://flic.kr/p/2ovpdNd https://flic.kr/p/2ovp4PU https://flic.kr/p/2ovpdSg
Well I think this time I'm going to run 8mm high power tophat LED high beams and some mini led low beams. Just have to measure and drill the housings. It's good plastic. Injora bodies are thick. Going to run interior dome light aswell. Maybe a cargo bed light. But I don't think they had those yet. Frames on the way for mock up.

As for the paint finish. It looks good. But it's not tough. It's not adhered on there well. Colormaxx or Fusion or Hobby paint on plain would be better. Get plain if you want a quality paint finish.
 

ItsTooBright!

They shoot canoes don't they?
Nice electronics choice! Are you planning on separating the cab from the bed so it is a Comanche not a Cherokee with the roof hacked off?
 

Itruckhard

Active member
The only thing I was considering was a camper maybe. This plastic is twice as thick as the Bronco hardbody so didn't want to cut into it.
 

Itruckhard

Active member
https://flic.kr/p/2ovUdn8 https://flic.kr/p/2ovVd17 https://flic.kr/p/2ovRgbM https://flic.kr/p/2ovRgbX https://flic.kr/p/2ovWfZ2 https://flic.kr/p/2ovWygz
https://flic.kr/p/2ovWygp
https://flic.kr/p/2ovWfWm

Well it fits nice. Some of the screw in the diff were too short. Fixed and greased. Runs smooth. Added some home made leaf spring bushings and a sway bar to keep the back end tight. Have to decide how to mount it. Now. I wait for packages to trickle in. Have some 55mm shocks coming. Hopefully they fit. 90 mm 1.55 tires on the way.
 

Itruckhard

Active member
https://flic.kr/p/2owjbjt https://flic.kr/p/2owpt8V https://flic.kr/p/2owpt8K
I had to use a 3650 can. The clearance just isn't there. I made it to be a "unibody" so the body and frame don't come apart. If you want the battery out you need to loosen two M3 screw.
It's the SCX10 frame. The front and rear bumper mounts are TRX4 based by injora. I decided to put the Tcase underneath and in the middle. Centered the driveshafts. Those are those D90 axles. Hobbypark driveshafts.
3S hardcase. QUICRUN BL120. 3900 KV.
Flysky 3 channel.
The frame is right under the bed and it's fits perfectly. With some minor adjustments. Gave myself half a millimeter tolerances. Just made it. Drill press for the win. Now waiting for some 1.55" tires 90mm O.D. and some 55mm shocks. Hopefully they're the right fit. And have to fit in a panhard bar. Just enough space.
 

cooper

Well-known member
like the direction of this. Just see a problem with all these parts and it is nothing related to you but those yotas are not very strong, specially with a powerful motor like that
 

Tiny truck’n

New member
I bought one of the rough country rc4wd jeeps that are discontinued for unknown reasons. Lol. I can take a guess but who knows. The k44 axles are scale but gears are weak and strip easy. Stripped with stock brushed motor setup.
 

Itruckhard

Active member
Uh oh. Guess I'll buy a spare set. They're on sale right now. I looked at them they seems like a decent block oxide pinion and sintered ring gear. If they're just trash I hope I can find something to fit. It all goes together so well.
 

Kear

Bleb
I bought one of the rough country rc4wd jeeps that are discontinued for unknown reasons. Lol. I can take a guess but who knows. The k44 axles are scale but gears are weak and strip easy. Stripped with stock brushed motor setup.
Weird, the K44 uses the same gears as the Yota axles and they've proven perfectly strong in plenty of applications, although if they're shimmed wrong or don't have enough grease they strip out, which does happen on their RTRs.
 

Itruckhard

Active member
These ones came with hard bone dry blue grease. And I had to dismantle and reassemble them. Use some light oil and red grease. Helps it flow to the bearings. But the material looked pretty solid. I have to wait for the wheels and shocks before I get a test run. And it's my first time using leaf springs or these type of axles. So I'm hoping it's not a dud like the Komodo Crawler axles I had long ago. Did a whole build. Destroyed them. No parts to be had.
 

ItsTooBright!

They shoot canoes don't they?
These ones came with hard bone dry blue grease. And I had to dismantle and reassemble them. Use some light oil and red grease. Helps it flow to the bearings. But the material looked pretty solid. I have to wait for the wheels and shocks before I get a test run. And it's my first time using leaf springs or these type of axles. So I'm hoping it's not a dud like the Komodo Crawler axles I had long ago. Did a whole build. Destroyed them. No parts to be had.
I did pretty much the same thing with my K44s, looked like the just put wax on the gears!

Sorry, kinda threadjacking you here!
 

Itruckhard

Active member
It's all good. The more the merrier. It would be nice to not have to dismantle and grease and shim and re tap threads everytime you get basically any moving part. But even if they did a good job I'd probably take them apart anyway. I give them a B- for build quality. But for the price they're great.
 

Itruckhard

Active member
https://flic.kr/p/2oxBhtd
Well the truck is done. Steering angles perfected. Less than a millimeter clearance for the linkages. But the servo. The cheap GX 40 kilo black ones from Amazon. Sooooo slow. Like absurdly slow at 6.0 volts. Decided to add the buck converter to bump it to 7.4v. It was better. Seems like it has the torque. Still a bit slow. But over driving it to 8.0 volts didn't speed it up. Now just waiting for the (is your item stuck in transit) message to become (your package has been delivered)..... for the wheels and tires. And a bumper.
I did manage to fit that crappy plastic interior into the truck. But it looks lame up close. Tossed it out. Will see what kind of trailer I can get. This is the first stock style truck I've made. But it's still like a 6" lift 315/70/16r tires. The suspension cycles about 14 mm. Pretty fun short build. Had to keep my tolerance super tight with all the holes and it was just right. So that was satisfying. The drill press and soft jaw vice were the M.V.P.s. will post when the tires are on.






---technical note

The buck converter simply takes battery input power, then the output side goes the the red and black of the servo and the white (s) signal wire goes from the receiver to the servo [power wires cut] turn the adjustment screw until desired voltage is displayed. (3amps max)
Feel free to ask.
 
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