ebaYJeep - aka. Daydream B'leafer


V.I.P. Member
Having put the finishing touches to a number of my models recently, I thought I would catalogue the most appropriate of them here on the SBG Gallery, starting with my most recent build - the ebaYJeep, aka. Daydream B'leafer.

Below is a summary of the specification and the key features I've incorporated:

model name: ebaYJeep (aka. Daydream B'leafer)

driver: Ozzy (customised Ozzy Osbourne figure, modified to fit in seat)

body: Tamiya Jeep Wrangler YJ (stretched to fit longer wheelbase, and roof removed)

chassis: RC4WD leaf-sprung Trailfinder 2 ladder chassis (copy)

wheels: RC4WD white 8-spoke steel wheels (1.9 size)

tyres: no-name Maxxis style tread 115mm diameter (1.9 size)

motor & transmission: RC4WD 25T motor, 5:1 ratio planetary gearbox and 2:1 transfer case

axles: RC4WD Yota II.

suspension: RC4WD 80mm scale OME (Old Man Emu) internal spring shocks (springs removed) and leaf springs

wheelbase: 270mm

track width: f: 180mm / r: 180mm

overall width: 225mm

overall length: 475mm (inc. nudge-bar and spare wheel)

overall height: 237mm

photo. flat-fender style to allow for oversize tyres to clear on full articulation.

photo. original body extended by +30mm behind the doors to fit 270mm wheelbase.

photo. metal cage and side bars to help protect body from trail damage.

photo. rear chassis cross-member shortened to fit between rear wings, four tailights replace original style.

photo. 115mm tyres on 1.9 white 8-spoke wheels.

photo. original box sills replaced/strengthened, and covered with scale checker-plate.

photo. off-the-shelf stinger style winch-bumper modified to fit closely around the front of chassis.

photo. working winch (wireless remote) and LED headlights/running lights.

Summary of custom features: Rather than shorten the [aluminium ladder] chassis to fit the short wheel-base Tamiya Wrangler body, I elected to stretch the rear body tub behind the doors, and at the same time remove the roof section completely to create an open-top LWB version of the traditional leaf-sprung YJ Jeep - to fit what was the natural location of the axles using the RC4WD leaf springs front and rear - in this instance, a 270mm wheelbase.

Wanting to remain as authentic and true to scale as possible with this build, the chassis was built up with scale 'Yota' axles on RC4WD leaf springs, and their Old Man Emu branded scale shocks, with the internal springs removed to help maximise articulation and response from the leaf springs.

Although built very much as a crawler (or at least extreme trail runner), since this would be a leaf-spring vehicle it would not have the ultimate articulation of a four-link coil-spring vehicle anyway, so I elected to mount the body as low as possible to the chassis, and modify the wheel-arches as required so the intended size tyres would clear. In turn this would help to keep the centre of gravity as low as possible too of course - something further enhanced by the soft-top configuation.

The transmission uses a 25T RC4WD crawler specific motor, coupled to a 5:1 planetary gearbox, then a short metal prop shaft to a central 2:1 ratio transfer case to split the drive fore and aft, again using scale metal prop-shafts.

The wheel and tyre combination are typical for this sort of trail-orientated rig - classic Weller white 8-spoke steel wheels with a 5 stud bolt pattern as befitting Jeep axles, which feature internal bead-lock rings and are finished with scale acorn wheel-nuts - and shod with Maxxis style tread tyres in 115mm diameter.

Because this would be a fully open top vehicle, with a complete [full depth] scale interior, the available space for the electronics and particularly battery packaging would potentially be at a premium. Ultimately however, I have actually managed to fit two full-size 6-cell NiMh batteries under the body - one horizontally behind the dash/below the scuttle panel for the main motive power, and a second battery longitudinally between the rear chassis rails (above the rear axle) for dedicated power for the front-mounted scale Warm 8274 winch. note. either battery can also be connected to the ESC to extend running time if the winch is not required.

All the other electronics are mounted under the vehicle bonnet, on a custom fabricated engine bay/inner wing assembly, together with the forward mounted motor and chassis mounted steering servo alongside. It's cozy under there, but it all works - and helps to keep the non-waterproof electrics out of harm's way.

The Tamiya YJ Jeep Wrangler body was extensively modified, initially by removing the roof and stretching the rear wings so that the wheel-arches lined up with the longer wheelbase, which also then allowed a fuel filler recess to be incorporated behind the driver's door. A full interior was fabricated using styrene sheets of various thicknesses, including full-depth footwells and a transmission tunnel, and rear wheel-arch boxes.

Interior detailing includes scale checker-plate panels for the floor, seat-box and door linings, AMPro Eng. scale door handles, window winders and gear/transfer shift levers (the Bruiser/HiLux versions), and a Wild-Willy steering wheel on a custom column.

In the rear load-bed, I created a wooden deck using alternating 1/4" [real] cherry wood strips and aluminium rod as runners, and finished with linseed oil. The dash is covered with self-adhesive aluminium foil that has been lightly sanded, and the passenger grab-handle fabricated from a length of bent wire coat-hanger. My favourite feature has been to incorporate actual working side windows that can be slid up and down on both sides as desired.

Ozzy himself has been modified to sit comfortably in the Axial Corbeau bucket seat, complete with Yeah Racing harness seat-belts. His original sweatpants have been repainted as denim jeans, and his [blank] watch face modified with a fuel-gauge decal - looks like he's running on empty!

The centre console is an RC4WD accessory ARB fridge, containing scale ice cubes and a selection of Ozzy's favourite tipples: Jack Daniels, Absolut vodka, and beer! Together with a ProLine fire extinguisher, there is also a packet of crisps and a carton of Marlboro cigarettes on the transmission tunnel, and a RC4WD flashlight on the passenger seat (all accessories secured with glue/servo tape to prevent them being lost in the event of a roll-over).

The LED lights are a mix of original Tamiya front light buckets and lenses, CCHand replacement [working] front indicators/running lights, and 3mm LED size Axial housings for the side/wing markers and quartet of tail lamps. The loom itself was from RC4WD for their Chevy Blazer body (which had the correct size LEDs I needed), modified/extended where necessary to fit this application.

Other exterior detailing includes more checker-plate for the sills and rear wing corners, Axial wing-mirrors (with reflective lenses), metal grab-rails along each rear wing, and customised front 'flat' fenders, using aluminium rod and infilled with more scale checker-plate. The bodywork itself has been lightly weathered and rusted to represent typical trail-damage.

The front Warn 8274 working winch and Hi-Lift jack are both from RC4WD, and the Hi-Lift is mounted using quick-release R-clips typically as would the real thing. The metal winch bumper is a 'stinger' style, and modified to fit closely around the front of the chassis rails to maximise the approach angle.

At the rear, I elected to remove the tailgate (originally left in place) and mount the full-size spare wheel on a custom bracket (complete with spinner) at an angle between the rear quarter panels. The finish touch was an engraved personal licence plate DDMBLFR (DayDreaM, B'LeaFeR).

After initial test driving the vehicle, it was clear that some kind of roll-over protection would be required to protect the rather flimsy door frames, so I invested in an off-the-self solution from RC4WD/CCHand, which provides a windscreen and cabin cage, and that rather fortuitously also lined up with forward mounting holes I'd already made to mount the side grab-rails along each rear wing. However, I felt the tubing (while very strong) was not quite as chunky as I'd have hoped (being a scale 30mm diameter rather than 45-50mm as a typical 1:1 roll cage), so the roof bars were clad with foam and duct-tape (again, as you might see on a full-size vehicle), and most recently I've also covered the roof area with a rubber [window] netting - which still allows the interior to be viewed, while adding to the overall theme of this vehicle being a hard-working trail-runner.

note. after a number of off-road runs in both damp and salty conditions, the high metal content of this build has now started to rust naturally and authentically underneath, adding to the overall scale appearance.

Detail photos:

photo. Ozzy Osbourne figure customised to fit in Axial/Corbeau seat, with Yeah Racing seat-belts.

photo. RC4WD Warn 8274 winch on modified winch-bumper. CCHand working front running lights.

photo. side windows mounted in custom runners, allowing them to slide up and down as desired...

photo. halfway...

photo. ...down.

photo. original 'scale' mode: with load-bay accessories and tail-gate in place...

photo. most recent 'trail' mode: spare wheel, roof-net, and tail-gate removed.

photo. cabin accessories include Ozzy's favourite tipples.

photo. custom rolled blue shop towels in milk-crate.

photo. Ozzy's fuel-gauge watch - running on empty!

photo. floorpan finished with rubberised under-seal, twin batteries (one under the load-bay floor and the other up under the scuttle panel behind the dash) - either can be connected to the ESC or winch as required.

photo. customised CCHand/RC4WD roof rack cage, and repaired window frame.

photo. custom checker-plate protection panels, Axial tail-lights and personal licence plate.


V.I.P. Member
A couple of new additions:

photo. a quartet of roof-lights - not currently wired up as I actually prefer them with the covers on...

photo. Ozzy got himself a snazzy ARB style diff-cover (swapped with an axle I just bought for another project).


V.I.P. Member
A few photos (frame grabs) from the RC4WD West Coast Scale Challenge this past weekend:

photo. Pinto lent me his Bronco and trailer to tug the Jeep to the trailhead (as the Jeep is so low geared in comparison).

photo. saves carrying it!

photo. tiny cameras and tiny trucks work so well together!

photo. all good things come to an end... in this case, a [broken] axle end.

photo. Maybe it's time for a more substantial axle upgrade after all?


Putting it in "H"
Spectacular writeup! I'm really impressed not just with the truck, but the detail you provided with your thread. Thank you very much for sharing!


V.I.P. Member
My pleasure!

You might also like the instrument panel I installed recently too:

A mix of Tamiya Wild Willy 2 dash decals mounted to 1mm thick plastic washers, and a styrene strip with pin-heads as screws.

Plus I've also replaced the broken front axle with the genuine RC4WD version in an effort to reduce the casing end snapping in future - more detailed info. here for anyone interested in a side-by-side comparison.


V.I.P. Member
Some highlights from the recent RC4WD West Coast Scale Challenge event from AMPro eng. - including Hopper's HiLux and the ebaYJeep, plus my D90 and SRB Cage Racer!

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V.I.P. Member
Thank you!

Just a little update post the RC4WD event - broken front axle replaced (with a genuine RC4WD Yota 2 axle, rather than an ebay copy), and I also decided to remove the four roof-lights which were vulnerable in the event of a roll-over - of which there were a few...

photo. two of the four lamps relocated to the brackets on the screen cage, and the upper light-bar removed.

Ozzy is ready to go again!


New member
This Jeep looks so real! I love the build! I also have a TF2 SWB with that Tamiya YJ body and running the RC4WD 35T Motor. Cheers


V.I.P. Member
Thank you both!

Yes, I particularly like this Tamiya YJ body (so much so that I've bought another, this time for a coil-sprung/4-link project), and generally much prefer the versatility and results you can get with modifying hardbodies.

This a good opportunity to introduce a couple of further mods I've made recently to the build:

I decided to ultimately replace the original twin oval rear lights with single vertical versions instead (and had to cut new checker-plate covers too of course) - primarily because I'd noticed that my modified loom meant that two of the LEDs were rather dull compared to the others - as if the brake lights were only working on one side if you like, which while 'authentic' perhaps, I wanted to try and resolve.

I also decided to replace the spare wheel hanging out of the tailgate with a pair of sand ladders and a ground anchor (originally accessories on another build which I've since modified - see the BIG BJ in the builds section), as this is primarily my trail truck, so felt it was best it was fully prepared. There is a tow rope/tree strap too which I'll have to zip-tie somewhere.

The spare wheel can still be mounted in the load-bed too, and I'll most likely rig up some sort of mounting bracket for this, as I kind of like the look?
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Supporting Member
Nice Jeep!

As a fellow Brummie I approve of your Ozzy usage, one suggestion though- maybe don't have him fully attached so when you crash he can fly out the front and hit his head on a tree? Like the 1:1 Ozzy...


V.I.P. Member
Nice Jeep!

As a fellow Brummie I approve of your Ozzy usage, one suggestion though- maybe don't have him fully attached so when you crash he can fly out the front and hit his head on a tree? Like the 1:1 Ozzy...

Hee hee - funny you mention that, I also have another version of that figure with his leg in a plaster-cast! I understand it is more rare than the regular version so I'm loath to modify it as a seated driver in the same way - although I originally bought it because I was considering a 3/4 height driver (to fit in my VS4-10 project) and therefore he wouldn't need both feet anyway of course.


V.I.P. Member
Inspired by a new Jeep project I'm working on, I thought I'd also experiment and make a quick update to this YJ build... now that summer is here, I reckon it's time to take the doors off Ozzy!

photo. a tale of two Jeeps...

photo. Oh no, what have you done?

By carefully cutting along the door seams with a fine Dremel wheel (and scoring the radius corners at the bottom with a sharp knife), I was able to snap out the doors leaving a pretty clean edge. I'd actually always had this option in mind when I first built the body, so had made the sills double thickness both for strength and potentially as a more realistic detail should the doors ever be removed (while the doors themselves are double thickness too, having sliding windows inside)...

photo. a quick clean up of the edges with a sanding drum on the Dremel, and the trail-beater style of this truck means it's not really essential to touch in the paint either.

photo. I was temped to leave the passenger door attached, and just put the discarded door in the load-bed like a real junker!

photo. ...but ultimately decided to remove both doors - which having done neatly, I can always reattach with scale working hinges, and have the pins free so that they can be taken on and off just like the 1:1 doors!

Hope you like the latest mods!


V.I.P. Member
Just another quick update as this continues to evolve - Ozzy has got himself a British bikini top, and a tailgate net...

... plus a drain bolt in that ARB diff cover, to empty out the sludge!



V.I.P. Member
Another quick update to this build, following on from a similar mod I made to the Tamiya shell I used in my more recent TJ Jeep build: TJ Hooker, and also to the BJ40 Cruiser Retro Desmond rear aches...

photo. rounded rear wheel-arch panels cut from styrene - to more closely follow the profile of the tyre, even at full compression.

The evolution continues!
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V.I.P. Member
Ozzy's been back in the workshop this week...

Having converted all my other crawlers to LiPo now, I thought I'd revisit this build and see if I can't revise the battery layout in an effort to make battery swaps far easier in future than it is with the current hidden NiMh installation.

The problem with this particular [completely open] vehicle and battery location [under the hood/scuttle panel] means the body has to be removed each time, and unfortunately that is a little more involved than just four sill-screws as the harness seatbelts locate on the shock-towers, which themselves protrude through the rear floor...

With the NiMh battery, I just left it in place, and charged it via the connector accessed inside the front wheel-arch, but with a LiPo I really ought to remove it, which would be more of a pain each time, and particularly if I wanted to swap batteries halfway through a longer trail run.

The solution turned out to be more obvious/lucky that I imagined - in that in this instance, the body is mounted quite far back on the chassis, and coupled with the low[er] profile motor and planetary gear transmission, means that once the hood was removed, a shorty 2S hard-case pack can be slide in and out of the existing battery tray (and secured with velcro straps as before) while the rest of the body remains in place - result!

Having measured more than once, I cut around the hood carefully with a thin Dremel wheel, and will now replace the moulded hinge detail with scale working hinges so that the hood lifts up to reveal the battery and other electronics, and be secured at the front (above the grille) with a pair of magnets in a faux radiator shroud.

I can see this rapidly becoming my go-to trail-truck again!

More soon!

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Scaled, but not fishy.
Classic "Win, win"! The opening bonnet will be a cool scale detail and it gives you quick, simple battery and electronics access. ::2thumbs
I have been thinking about doing this on a build someday, all my current rigs are a bit of a faff to change batteries..:hmmm:
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