Lithium Polymer Charging/Discharging & Safety Information - From the manufacturers


Supporting Member
Lithium Polymer Charging/Discharging & Safety Information - From the manufacturers

* Note: We at Crawl Canada will not be resonsible for any personal harm or property damage, we're only trying to pass this information onto you to help try to further your knowledge of battery care.

The following is directly from MAX AMPS:
Lithium Polymer Charging/Discharging & Safety Information

How do I choose the right lipo battery pack for my set-up?
You will need to choose the correct voltage(2S-6S) and size(physical dimensions) to fit in your vehicle, but how do you know if the pack can actually keep up with the power that the motor requires?
We make it easy for customers to choose the correct battery pack for their motor by rating our batteries based on surge watts.

The “surge watts” of your battery must be higher than the “surge watts” of your motor. The motor’s “surge watts” should be found in the instruction manual or on the motor manufacturer’s website. If you can not find the surge watt rating of your motor, our sales department also has a list of motor surge watt ratings from the manufacturers. Call us toll free at 888-654-4450 and we can give you the rating of your motor.
Our batteries are rated with the same system used for RC motors. Most motor manufacturers including Castle Creations and Novak rate their motors by maximum “surge watts”.

How does MaxAmps test a battery pack’s “surge watts”?
Using a data logger and an actual RC motor and speed control, we test the “surge watts” by applying a load to the pack(not an individual cell) and confirming that it will maintain well over 3.2V per cell during this load. By using this method, we are confident that your MaxAmps pack will deliver the rated “surge watt” load without hitting the low voltage cutoff or damaging your pack.

Why don’t you rate your packs by constant amp draw?
Most lipo retailers rate their packs based on the individual cell’s performance(C rate) rather than the actual pack’s performance. We no longer use this method because of resistance and heat build-up in the welds, shrink wrap, wire and the plug. This makes the cell’s individual “C” rate irrelevant. The “C” rate of a pack will always be lower than the “C” rate of the individual cells in that pack.
The constant “C” rate of an individual lipo cell is just an arbitrary number without a standard for testing it. There is no standard “C” rate test. A manufacturer or retailer can rate a battery at virtually any “C” rate since there is no required voltage or temperature range for the test.

For example, if you actually run any 5000mah lipo “pack” at 40C constant(200 amps) the following would happen even if the individual cells could handle the load:
  • Your entire run time would be less than 90 seconds.
  • You would melt the RC plug attached to the pack(Deans, Traxxas, Tamiya, etc).
  • The bullet connectors on a hard case pack would melt out of the casing.
  • Even 12awg noodle wire would get too hot to touch.
The “surge watts” are a much more accurate way of rating an RC battery pack due to the fact that in a real world RC setting, you would never have a “constant” amp draw from the start of the cycle to the end.

Why Watts and not Amps?
Since amps x volts = watts(power), a rating means nothing without both the amp draw and the voltage under load.
Amp draw only gives you half of the information required to determine the performance of the pack. For example, if a pack can handle 100 amps for one cycle but goes down to 2.5V per cell under that load, it is useless at 100 amps since the low voltage cutoff would kick in at 3.2V-3V per cell.It is the combination of amps and volts that create a higher performing pack.


Lithium Polymer Charging/Discharging Instructions & Safety Information Continued...

Connection: You must be sure that the correct polarity is observed when connecting battery packs to charger or speed controller.

Charging/Discharging: Charge your lipo battery pack at 2C or less on a lipo approved charger only. If you choose to charge at any rate higher than 1C, you must use a balance charging system similar to the Hyperion chargers offered here at MaxAmps. Otherwise you risk your pack becoming severely out of balance over time, which in turn will significantly decrease the lifespan.
Ex: If charging a 4000mah lipo pack at 1C, you would be charging it at 4 Amps.
Ex: If balance charging a 4000mah lipo pack at 2C, you would be charging it at 8 Amps.
Set your speed control to hard cut-off at 3V/cell or higher-3.2V per cell is best. If your ESC does not have this feature, you will need an external cutoff or alarm. (Ex. Novak Smart-Stop or LVA)

Do NOT charge your lipo packs on a NIMH/NICD charger. Your charger must be designed for lipo cells. Do not charge above 4.2V per cell, over discharge under 3V per cell. Never leave lipo packs unattended during charging or after a crash in your vehicle. Don’t leave the battery pack plugged into a vehicle while not in use. The pack can still discharge to an unsafe level and damage the pack even if all components are turned off.

It is dangerous to draw more power than what the pack is rated for. This will void any warranty on the pack and can also cause your battery pack to ignite into flames. The temperature of the pack should never exceed 140 degrees. If it does, you may need a pack that can handle more surge watts.

Storage: If you don’t plan on using your lipo pack for longer than a week, store it at 50-60% of the pack’s rated capacity. Make sure to cycle and/or balance your packs at least once per month since leaving them on the shelf for a prolonged period of time can cause the packs to get severely out of balance or even go dead.

Taps on Lipo Packs: All MaxAmps lipo packs come standard with Hyperion style balancing taps (white connector). This tap can be used with our Method Balancer and all Hyperion balance chargers. Always balance your pack before each use to prevent the possibility of over-charging or over-discharging. This also “matches” the voltage of each cell to give you the highest performance and longest life.

Lithium Polymer Safety Tips:
Lithium Polymer cells are a tremendous advance in battery technology for RC use. However, due to the chemistry of lithium cells, there is a possibility of fire if charging is not properly done. It is unavoidable due to the nature of lithium itself. This is no different from many things we use in daily life – knives, kitchen cleaners, automobiles, for a few examples – which are inherently dangerous, but which can be used safely by adhering to simple rules and precautions.
  • Be absolutely sure that the Lithium Polymer charger settings are correct for the battery pack being charged – both voltage and current settings
  • Lithium Polymer must be CHARGED and STORED in a fire-safe container like a Lipo Sack
  • Do not charge batteries near flammable items or liquids
  • Keep a dry fire extinguisher nearby or a large bucket of dry sand, which is a cheap and effective extinguisher
  • Never charge inside an automobile even when parked
  • Batteries should NEVER be left unattended while charging
  • KEEP BATTERIES AWAY from children and pets at ALL times
Handling Cautions:
  • Never leave batteries inside a car on a hot day or any other place where temperature may exceed 140F / 60C.
  • Although environmentally friendly, lithium polymer cells must be FULLY discharged before disposal. Use a resistor setup (light bulbs, for example) to accomplish this, to avoid the possibility of a short-induced fire after disposal.
  • Immediately discharge damaged batteries at 1/2 C rate and dispose.
  • Do not put the loose cells in a pocket, bag, or drawer where they could short-circuit against other items, or the battery tabs could be pressed against each other.
  • Do not place the loose cells on any conductive surface, such as a metal-topped table.
  • We recommend purchasing pre-assembled packs rather than assembling packs from loose cells.
  • Take care that the cells are not punctured, especially by metallic objects like hobby knives.
  • If the electrolyte in the cells should get on your skin, thoroughly wash with soap and water. If in the eyes, rinse thoroughly with cool water. Immediately seek medical attention for this, or for burns.
  • Although our batteries are now water sealed, we do not recommend submerging our batteries for extended periods of time. The battery packs will be protected during normal rc conditions.
All Lithium Polymer Batteries we carry are only approved for rc use, and may not be used in any other application. Battery discharging, charging, electric motors, spinning propellers, and flying models all have the potential for serious injury to persons and damage to property. In purchasing these products, the user agrees to accept responsibility for all such risks, and not to hold the battery manufacturer, distributors, or retailers - (all including owners and employees) -responsible for any accident, injury to persons, or damage to property.
The use of Lithium Polymer batteries in radio-controlled models is to be considered experimental, and there is no warranty, expressed or implied, by the manufacturer, distributors, or retailers with respect to the capacity, life in cycles, storage, or discharge characteristics of lithium cells in RC use, nor any other use nor aspect unless otherwise stated.

Lipo Battery Warming Devices/”Bumping” Lipo Packs:
Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to “heat up” your batteries or increase the voltage of a pack above 4.2V per cell using these devices or techniques. Some insidious lithium polymer retailers/distributors have suggested using these devices and techniques to increase the performance of your lithium polymer packs. THIS IS NOT SAFE AND IS LITERALLY PLAYING WITH FIRE!

Devices on the market that heat up lithium polymer batteries can increase the risk of a fire. Lithium polymer cell manufacturers suggest that exceeding 140 degrees is NOT a safe temperature for a lithium polymer cell. At 140 degrees, the pack can become unstable and very dangerous. The small increase in performance is not worth the risk of a fire. PLEASE STAY SMART AND SAFE BY NOT USING THESE PRODUCTS!

Some retailers/distributors of other brands of lithium polymer batteries have suggested that their customers and racers “bump” the voltage of their packs using settings other than the lithium polymer setting on their charger. The manufacturers of lithium polymer cells suggest a voltage range of 3V-4.2V. Increasing voltage above 4.2V per cell is not safe. You should never attempt to charge your packs beyond the voltage set for lithium polymer packs on your lithium polymer charger. Using other battery settings to “bump” the voltage beyond 4.2V per cell can cause fire and injury. The small increase in performance is not worth the risk of fire. PLEASE DO NOT USE THESE METHODS!
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Supporting Member
The following is directly from E-FLIGHT:
Your Guide to Batteries

Whether you are involved in electric or glow-powered flight, rechargeable batteries have a dramatic impact on the performance of your particular model. Combine the varying range of experience that someone might have before they even pick up a radio with the numbers of different battery types, chemistries, and capacity and it can be rather easy for someone to do the wrong thing when it comes to battery selection or maintenance. Quite often people may damage or otherwise reduce the life of their rechargeable cells before they even use them for the first time. While it may seem like there are too many different types of cells and it might seem confusing, knowledge is power.
These are three of the most common park-flyer battery packs. Each one has a slightly different capacity, size, connector, and chemical composition. You can see here how much smaller a comparable LiPo is versus a standard battery pack.


Choosing the Right Pack for You: Regardless of what type of model you will be using your particular battery in, there will undoubtedly be a number of different chemical compositions to choose from.

Nickel Cadmium (NiCd), Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH), and Lithium Polymer (LiPo) cells are currently the most commonly used, but each needs to be charged, discharged, and stored differently. On top of that, each model may require a different cell count or battery configuration as well. To determine what pack configuration you will need, check the owner’s manual of your particular model for more info. The battery you will need should be listed in the “Items Needed to Complete” section of your manual.

Battery Basics: One of the most common misconceptions about batteries and battery packs is that a battery pack is made up of one very large battery. Truth be known, a battery pack is actually constructed from a number of individual batteries, called cells, that have been connected together to work as a single pack. There are two ways that the cells can be connected together. The first is called “Series”, where the positive terminal of one cell is wired to the negative terminal of another cell. This method is used when you want to increase the output voltage of the total battery pack, as the individual cell voltages are actually combined to create one large voltage output. For example, a 6-cell NiCd or NiMH pack is made up of cells rated at a nominal 1.2 volts each. When wired in series, you take the individual voltage (1.2V in this case) and multiply that by the number of cells in the pack (6) to get the total pack nominal voltage. If you do the math, you’ll see that a 6-cell pack has a total nominal voltage of 7.2 volts. This is the most common cell connection method found in the RC hobby.


While a battery may be a battery in many instances, the connectors can vary quite a bit. This battery from a HobbyZone Firebird Commander 2 is similar in dimensions to the standard ParkZone J3 Cub’s pack, but the connector is significantly different.
Here we have a winner. The right battery with the right connector makes all the difference in the world.

The second way to build a pack is called “Parallel.” In this method, you connect the positive terminal of one cell to the positive terminal of another, and do the same with the negative terminals. Unlike a Series connection that increases the voltage output of a battery pack, wiring cells in Parallel increases the total capacity of the pack. Much like the voltage calculation, but to figure out what the actual end result capacity will be, simply add the mAh rating ( milli-amp hour) of the cells being paralleled together to figure out what the capacity of the pack is. If you are using 2100mAh cells in a 2-cell parallel pack (commonly referred to as “2P”), multiply 2100 by 2, and you will get a total capacity of 4200mAh. Just remember though, a Parallel connection does not change voltage, so while you can get 4200mAh out of a 2P pack, , the nominal voltage will remain the same.

Chemistry Class: Rechargeable receiver packs save you money in the long run and are generally lighter than equivalent alkaline packs. As I mentioned before, there are three major chemistry types used in constructing a rechargeable battery.

The first one is called Nickel Cadmium, or NiCd (pronounced Ni-cad) for short. While not as commonly used as they once were, there are still a number of NiCd packs sold and used each year. NiCd batteries are relatively inexpensive, but they have a number of negatives. NiCd batteries need to be fully discharged after each and every use. If they aren’t, they will not discharge to their full potential (capacity) on subsequent discharge cycles, causing the cell to develop what’s commonly referred to as a memory. Additionally, the capacity per weight (also known as “energy density”) of NiCd cells is generally less than NiMH or LiPo cell types as well. Finally, the Cadmium that is used in the cell is quite harmful to the environment, making disposal of NiCd cells an issue. In fact, several countries in Europe have banned NiCd batteries for just this reason.

This ban is what sped up the demand for alternative cell types, and the first to really answer the call was Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH). NiMH cells have many advantages over their NiCd counterparts. With the removal of Cadmium from the cell, the NiMH cells were able to fill the need for industrial and hobby-grade batteries all over the world. NiMH cell manufacturers were also able to offer significantly higher capacities in cells approximately the same size and weight of comparable NiCd cells. NiMH cells have an advantage when it comes to cell memory too, as they do not develop the same performance issues as a result of improper discharge care.

Lithium Polymer batteries have really taken a foothold in the air market due to their high capacities, high voltage outputs, and light weight. A LiPo pack can weigh as much as 50% less than a conventional can-style battery pack.
Lithium Polymer (LiPo) cells are the newest and most revolutionary cells to come to market. LiPo cells typically maintain a more consistent average voltage over the discharge curve when compared to NiCd or NiMH cells. Add to that the higher nominal voltage of a single LiPo cell (3.7V versus 1.2V for a typically NiCd or NiMH cell), making it possible to have an equivelant or even higher total nominal voltage in a much smaller package. LiPo cells also typically offer very high capacity for their weight, delivering upwards of twice the capacity for sometime ? the weight of comparable performance NiMH cells and packs. That’s right, with LiPos you can often achieve higher voltage and power output, with more capacity, in a lighter weight package.

With all of these benefits, why aren’t LiPo packs more widely used? With so much energy packed into such a small space, there are some important safety measures to take when dealing with LiPo cells. A LiPo cell needs to be carefully monitored during charging as overcharging a LiPo cell (to beyond 4.2v), or the charging of a physically damaged or overdischarged cell (discharged to below 3.0v under load) can be a potential fire hazard.

Many LiPo batteries come with safe charging circuitry integrated into it.
This circuitry prevents over charging, over discharging, and in some instances helps to balance the pack out. If your pack has a “Charge” lead on it, always charge through that connector.

While some battery chargers can charge either NiCd/NiMH or LiPo cells, chargers that do all three major chemical types are starting to surface. The Dynamite Vision Peak Ultra can charge your LiPo packs along with NiMH and NiCd batteries as well.
If you are going to go the LiPo route, use a charger that can correctly charge them (using a constant current, constant voltage method of charging as LiPo cells can not be “Peak Charged”), such as the Vision Peak Ultra (DYN4053) or the E-flite Celectra 1-3 Cell charger (EFLC3005). Not only must care be taken when charging LiPo cells, but when discharging them as well. You should never over-discharge a LiPo pack to below 3.0v per cell under load, and you must use an ESC programmed to provide the proper low voltage cutoff for your pack (for example, a 9v cut off for a 3 series LiPo pack). Also, you should never dead short a LiPo pack, even if only for an instant, as the large amount of energy stored in the small package can catch fire quite quickly as a result. While these seem like major deterrents to using a LiPo battery, these usage guidelines are quickly becoming well known as they are typically well outlined in the instruction manuals included with most LiPo packs, ESCs and LiPo chargers. However with all of their performance benefits, there is little doubt that lithium polymer battery packs are currently the future of battery technology for electric powered models.

To Build or Not To Build:

Some people prefer to assemble their own battery packs rather than buy preassembled packs. Before you solder on the cells, scuff up the terminals to provide a better connection and more secure solder joint.


Many people damage their battery packs before they use them for the first time with poor soldering techniques. Remember to use an iron with a large enough tip to transfer heat, apply solder to the items being joined and not the iron itself, and don’t hold the iron onto the battery for too long. There are two different ways to purchase your batteries, either as loose cells or as pre-assembled packs. With individual batteries (cells), you’ll need to solder the cells together yourself to create your own battery pack. The second option is to purchase a pre-assembled battery pack that comes with the pack pre-assembled and shrink-wrapped, often times with the connectors pre-wired. If you do not have much soldering experience and/or do not have a high-quality soldering iron, it will generally be best to purchase a pre-assembled pack.

As a safety note, you should NEVER attempt to solder LiPo cells together into a pack configuration yourself. LiPo cells are very susceptible to heat damage, and excessive heat can cause them to possibly leak or even explode. For this and other reasons, most LiPo manufacturers willl offer pre-assembled packs only.

Discharging and Storage: Discharging and storage really go hand in hand. For NiCd packs, you should completely discharge them, to 0.9v per cell, before you store them NiMH packs should be stored with roughly a 50% charge in them for best performance. And before you charge a NiMH pack for the first time in the day, simply drain the pack completely on a discharger or in the model and you are then ready to charge the pack for use throughout the day.

LiPo batteries are completely different when it comes to discharging and storage. Depending on the output voltage of your pack, you should only discharge your pack so far. For example, during use, a 7.4V LiPo battery (also known as a “2 series” or “2S” pack) should never be discharged below 6.0 volts under load (3.0v per cell). For storage of 2 weeks or more, LiPo packs should be stored at approximately 3.8v per cell to prevent overdischarge or imbalance from developing among series cells in the packs due to differing levels of each cell’s self-discharge rate. In the case of a 2S 7.4v pack, the pack should always be stored at 7.6v. You should also store your LiPo batteries in a fireproof container or cabinet and never store your LiPo, or any other battery for that matter, in the model itself.

Pehaps no other item has quite as much effect and influence on our hobby as rechargeable batteries do. There are almost as many different theories and misconceptions out there about rechargeable batteries as there are individual battery sizes and types. Just remember that knowledge is key when it comes to batteries, as is consistent charging, discharging, and storage. Whether you are in the hobby shop or at the flying field, feel free to ask questions of those around you who may be more experienced. That is one of the best ways to learn and grow in the hobby.
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Supporting Member
From Common Sense RC:
How to Get the Most From Your Lipos

• Cycle your packs when you first get them. Cycle them at least 3 times at low rates.
• Try not to discharge your packs beyond 80% of their capacity. For example try to use only 1600mAh of a 2000mAh pack. This will keep the temperature down and prolong the life of your pack. Do not fly your plane until the “low voltage cut-off” kicks in.
• Balance your packs after every flight. An “out of balance” pack and a perfectly balanced pack look exactly alike. Charging an “out of balance” pack one time with a conventional serial charger will result in overcharging some of your cells and will do permanent damage. This will shorten the life of the pack quicker than anything.
• Whenever possible, charge your packs at the slowest rate you can. Of course, Lipos should never be charged unattended, so choose the slowest rate that will still allow you to keep an eye on the process. All battery types respond better to a slow charge.

What's in a "C" Rating?
We hear it from the grizzled veteran pilot who’s been flying since he lived next door to Wilbur and Orville Wright. We get the same question from guys who have with so little experience with electricity they think that Watts is just a neighborhood in L.A.

So what does the “C” rating on a lipo mean?
For starters, the ‘C” in “C Rating” stands for capacity.
To break it down to its simplest terms, the “C” rating is the maximum safe continuous discharge rate of a pack. If you see 10C on your battery, it means it can be discharged at 10 times that pack’s capacity. “Capacity” refers to the milliamp-hour rating of the battery, which will be listed as a number followed by mAh (2000mAh, for example).
Here’s the easy way to find your battery’s discharge rate – just multiply the number from the “C” rating by the pack’s capacity. Keep in mind that 1000 milliamps equals one amp.

Here’s an example, using an 11.1V – 2000mAh – 10C –
11.1 volt – 2000mAh -10C 2000 milliamps = 2 amps
2 Amps x 10 = 20 amps continuous discharge

This means that you can safely draw up to 20 amps continuously from that 11.1V – 2000mAh – 10C without doing damage to your battery.
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Supporting Member
From Thunder Power

• You must read these safety instructions and warnings before using or charging your batteries.
• Lithium Polymer batteries are volatile . Failure to read and follow these instructions may result in fire, personal injury and damage to property if charged or used improperly.
• Thunder Power, its distributors and retailers assume no liability for fai lures to comply with these warnings and safety guidelines.
• By purchasing this battery, the buyer assumes all risks associated with this product. If you do not agree with these conditions, please return the battery immediately before use.

General Guidelines and Warnings
1) Thunder Power batteries are NOT charged as you receive them. They contain approximately 50% of a full charge.

2) Use Lithium Polymer specific chargers only. Do not use a NiCd or NiMh charger - Failure to do so may cause a fire, which
may result in personal injury and property damage.

3) Never charge batteries unattended. When charging LiPo batteries you should always remain in constant observation to monitor
the charging process and react to potential problems that may occur.

4) Some LiPo chargers on the market may have technica l deficiencies that may cause them to charge LiPo batteries incorrectly. It is
solely the responsibility of the user to assure that the charger used works properly. Thunder Power only recommends chargers
and balancers made by Thunder Power, other brands may work but are out of Thunder Power’s control.

5) If at any time you witness a battery starting to balloon or swell up, discontinue the charging process immediately. Disconnect
the battery and place it in a safe observation area for approximately 15 minutes. Continuing to charge a battery that has begun
to swell will result in fire.

6) Battery observation should occur in a safe area outside of any building or vehicle and away from any combustible material. The
middle of a cement driveway is a good example of a safe observation area .

Shorts can cause fires! If you accidentally short the wires, the battery must be placed in a safe area for observation for
approximately 15 minutes. Additionally, be mindful of the burn danger that may occur due to a short across jewelry (such as
rings on your fingers).

8) Chemical reactions are not instantaneous, a battery that has been shorted may not ignite for 10 minutes.

9) All crash batteries, even if not deformed, should be placed in a safe area for observation for at least 15 minutes

10) If for any reason you need to cut the terminal wires, cut each wire separately, ensuring the wires do not become shorted across
the cutting tool.

When soldering connectors, first place a short length of heat shrink tubing over each wire. Then remove the insulating tape from
the red wire and strip a short length of the insulation off, exposing the conductor approximately ?”. Tin the exposed wire as well
as the connector terminals. Place the wire in contact with th e positive connector terminal and re -flow the solder of both together.
Once cool, slide the heat shrink tubing down to cover the joint and shrink. Repeat the process for the black wire. If you
accidentally short the battery wires, place the battery in a sa fe area and observe it for approximately 15 minutes.

12) Never store or charge a battery pack inside your car if the internal temperature will exceed 120 degrees

Before the First Charge
1) Make a visual inspection of the pack. Checking for any damaged leads, connectors, broken/cracked shrink covering, puffiness or other irregularities.

2) Before installing or changing the connector, check the voltage of the pack using a digital voltmeter (not your charger). All new
packs ship at approximately 3.80V to 3.9V per cell. For example: A 2S pack should read approximately 7.60V to 7.8V, A 3S pack should read approximately 11.40V to 11.7V.

3) If any damage to the pack or leads is found, or the voltage is significantly less for your pack than specified above, do not attempt
to charge or fly the pack; contact Thunder Power directly as soon as possible.

Charging Process
1) Never charge batteries unattended.

2) Charge in an isolated area, away from flammable materials.

3) Let the battery cool down to ambient temperature before charging.

4) Do not charge battery packs in series except as outlined in step 8. Charge each battery pack individually. Overcharging of one
or the other battery may occur resulting in fire. ***In order to discharge packs in series, the charged voltage of each
cell in both packs must be within 0.01V***

5) When selecting the cell count or voltage for charging purposes, select the cell count and voltage as it appears on the battery
label. Selecting a cell count or voltage other than the one printed on the lab el may result in overcharging and fire. As a safety
precaution, please confirm that the information printed on the battery is correct. For example: If a battery label indicates that it is a 3 cell battery (3S), its voltage should read between 11.4 and 11.7 volts. This battery must be charged as a 3 cell battery (peak of 12.6V).

6) You must check the pack voltage after each flight before re-charging. Do not attempt to charge any pack if the unloaded
individual cell voltages are less than 3.3V. For example: Do not charge a 2-cell pack if below 6.6V Do not charge a 3 cell pack if below 9.9V

7) NORMAL CHARGING: The charge rate should not exceed 1C (one times the capacity of the battery, unless otherwise
noted*). Higher setting may cause problems which can result in fire. For example: Charge a 730mAh battery at or below 0.73Amps. Charge a 5000mAh battery at or below 5Amps. Thunder Power packs with balancing connectors can be used with TP balancers for safer charging.

8) To charge two packs in series: The packs need to first be charged individually (using a 1010C, 210V balancer and associated
data cable), and flown in series for a couple of cy cles. Then, having flown both packs together in series, using a good quality
DVM, check the individual cell voltages at the balancing connector. If all the voltages are within 0.01V of each other, series
charging should be safe. Please note that this requi res a “Y” cable be made to electrically attach the packs together in series and
that the battery on the negative most side of this cable (the lead that goes to the negative terminal of the charger) be attached to
“group A” of the balancer. Please see 1010C/210V instructions.

First few Flights

Thunder Power recommends no more than 3-5C average discharge for breaking in new packs. Also be extremely careful not to over discharge new packs (Packs should NEVER be over discharged at any time, but over discharging on the first flight will ruin the battery
permanently before you are able to enjoy it. See “Caring for Battery” below).

Storage & Transportation

1) Store batteries at room temperature between 40 and 7 0 degrees F for best results.

2) If storing longer than one week; batteries must be stored at 3.8V/cell to 3.9V/cell (approximately 50% charged) . This is easily
accomplished using the Thunder Power 1010C charger.

3) Do not expose battery packs to direct sunlight (heat) for extended periods.

4) When transporting or temporarily storing in a vehicle, temperature range s should be greater than 20 degrees F but no more than
150 degrees F.

5) Storing Lipo batteries at temperatures greater than 170 degrees F for extended periods of time (more than 2 hours) may cause
damage to battery and possible fire.

Caring for Battery
1) Only charge a LiPo battery with a good quality Lithium Polymer charger. A poor quality charger can be dangerous . All Thunder Power chargers & Balancers are of the highest quality available.

2) Set voltage and current correctly (failure to do so can cause fire).

3) Please check pack voltage after the first charge.
For example; a 2 Cell battery should measure 8.4V (8.30 to 8.44), a 3 cell battery should measure 12.6V (12.45 to 12.66).

4) Do not discharge a battery to a level below 3V per cell under load. Discharging below 3V per cell can deteriorate battery
performance. Be sure to set your ESC for the proper cut off voltage (6.0V cut off for 2S packs, 9.0V cut off for 3S packs, etc).

5) Use caution to avoid puncture of the battery. Puncturing a LiPo battery may cause a fire.

Operating Temperature
Charge: 32 to 113 degrees F
Discharge: 32 to 140 degrees F

1) Always allow a battery to cool down to ambient temperature before re-charging.

2) During discharge and handling of batteries, do not exceed 160 degrees F.

Battery Life

Batteries that lose 20% of their capacity must be removed from service and disposed of properly.
Discharge the battery to 3V/Cell, making sure output wires are insulated, then wrap battery in a bag for disposal
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Supporting Member
Well you guys were asking for battery's the first of it.

As noted in the first of the thread...* Note: We at Crawl Canada will not be resonsible for any personal harm or property damage, we're only trying to pass this information onto you to help try to further your knowledge of battery care.

Folks, please keep in mind this is gathered information from some of the manufacturers themselves. Heyok, Tired & Code454 have scanned these posts for content as I'm no electronics genius and there didn't seem to be any glaring errors. If you think something needs to be added, have found contradictory statements let us know and we will alter and add to this thread to make it a better resource.

Happy reading! :read:
More info to come...
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