Toyota 2000GT
- Thread starter Ghostpig
- Start date
Ghostpig
Active member
Motor is in.
I had forgot one transmission brace that should have been incorporated with the chassis but an extra part works as fine too.
But I have other issues too with the design and parts. First is the bearing holes and their tolerances. I used an extra 0.1mm with every bearing hole and I thought that would be good. Still theres differences with the outcome. Some are fine but some are too loose. I quess the treatment the printing company does to the parts is the cause. They blast the parts with glass beads to remove any excess powder and that migh be harsher for parts that are more "open" in design.
Second is the design of the front a-arms. Front is ok when lifted.
But when it's under it's own weight, arm bushings pops off. They are on the wrong side of the arm.
I could glue them on but I don't trust that solution. I'll redesign the arms and I'll use Xrays arm bushings, they are more secure.
Lastly is the rear toe.
Not so clear in the pic but the left hand side points out. This is because pivot holes in the shock tower and hubs are bit crooked. I had too small pilot holes and the drill bits wandered a bit. I'll order new parts with bigger pilot holes. That should be enough.
But I'm happy that the overall design seems to be working. Chassis isn't even closely as floppy as I had thought. It is quite stiff actually. Also the wire wheels look great and the beadlock design works. I'll make a separate post on them later.
I had forgot one transmission brace that should have been incorporated with the chassis but an extra part works as fine too.
But I have other issues too with the design and parts. First is the bearing holes and their tolerances. I used an extra 0.1mm with every bearing hole and I thought that would be good. Still theres differences with the outcome. Some are fine but some are too loose. I quess the treatment the printing company does to the parts is the cause. They blast the parts with glass beads to remove any excess powder and that migh be harsher for parts that are more "open" in design.
Second is the design of the front a-arms. Front is ok when lifted.
But when it's under it's own weight, arm bushings pops off. They are on the wrong side of the arm.
I could glue them on but I don't trust that solution. I'll redesign the arms and I'll use Xrays arm bushings, they are more secure.
Lastly is the rear toe.
Not so clear in the pic but the left hand side points out. This is because pivot holes in the shock tower and hubs are bit crooked. I had too small pilot holes and the drill bits wandered a bit. I'll order new parts with bigger pilot holes. That should be enough.
But I'm happy that the overall design seems to be working. Chassis isn't even closely as floppy as I had thought. It is quite stiff actually. Also the wire wheels look great and the beadlock design works. I'll make a separate post on them later.
Ghostpig
Active member
That sounds like a solid and a reasonable plan! But I don't think I have enough Doge coins or kidneys.One coming up for auction! Maybe you could buy it for reference.
Here's a wheel picture dump. I used M2 screws and M2/M4.5 threaded inserts.
Parts needed for a wheel.
Brass inserts. M2 on the inside and M4.5 on the outside. Ebay and China wonderland is the place to get these.
First I drill the holes with a 4.2mm drill bit.
M2x5 bolt is used to screw the inserts in.
Half way in.
One done.
All done.
Time to put them together.
Inner ring is in.
Outer wheel too.
Inner wheel and bolts
Bolts tightened up.
Wheels done. Except I only have one inner ring. Need to print more.
SurlyBurly
Some day I'll be both revered & passe like Madonna
Wow, big step forward with that body, really impressive work.
